Snowflakes – The Sequel

I spent some time the other night working on the snowflake images a bit more. Here is a series of keepers (at least in my mind). All shot on my back patio here in Lakewood, Colorado. I actually thought about taking more during a more recent storm, but it was so cold when the snow was falling, the flakes were really small.

And don’t forget that you could win a $50 gift certificate to my online gallery by becoming a fan of my Facebook page. One fan will be picked at random on 1/31, so become a fan now!

Enjoy.

Colorado Snowflake macro photo by Chester Bullock

Colorado Snowflake macro photo by Chester Bullock

Colorado Snowflake macro photo by Chester Bullock

Colorado Snowflake macro photo by Chester Bullock

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Golden Gate in HDR, as show by Chester Bullock

This HDR image came out far better than I expected it to in the wind and water vapor surrounding me. It has been chosen as an editor’s pick at HDRSpotting.com, and HDR afficionado website. And now you can hang it on the wall of your home or office by placing an order from my online gallery. White space has been added to the gallery version, allowing proper cropping for standard prints and frames.

Also, if you like my work, consider becoming a fan of my Facebook page. On January 31, I will select one fan at random to receive a $50 gift certificate to my online gallery (for a print purchase only, not for session fees).

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HDR image of a gondola car taken near South Fork, Colorado with an Olympus E-510

I started shooting High Dynamic Range (commonly known as HDR) images roughly 2 years ago. I don’t shoot many (26 in my flickr gallery), but I enjoy shooting them. The gondola rail car in the photo above is the best one I have shot I think. Shooting HDR takes patience, at least with older dSLR’s like my Olympus E-510. Newer camera models, mainly ones that have arrived in the last 6-12 months, might have enough exposure bracketing built in to them to accomplish HDR captures with one click of the shutter release. Still others might have had a firmware update to accomplish this. It is my biggest hope that whatever Olympus brings out to replace the E-3 will have this feature.

I could write a tutorial on taking HDR images, but really, it would pale in comparison to the master, so I’ll let you have a look at Trey Ratcliff’s HDR Tutorial instead. I would also encourage you to check out his new book – “A World in HDR“.

After the captures, you need software. I have been using Photomatix HDR since I started doing HDR images, and highly recommend it. Trey does too, and he has even worked out a 15% discount with Photomatix (follow the link to see how to get it). Once again, Trey tells us the best way to use the software. For me personally, I usually play with a couple different settings in Photomatix to get the photo looking just the way I want to. For the gondola above, I think there were 4 versions, this one being the best (in my eyes). I would encourage you to experiment as well, and get the look that pleases you the most.

If you are looking for inspiration in other people’s HDR work, or if you have your own portfolio of images to show people, you need to take a look at hdrspotting.com. This collection of images is extraordinary, and I hope I produce something worthy of inclusion. To become a contributor, you need to obtain an invitation code. While it is not clear to me how people get codes to give away, if you watch #hdrspotting on Twitter or ask around in the HDR group on Facebook, you should see a code pop up. I will post them to my Twitter feed if they ever come my way.

If you are a flickr user, you should look into the HDR and Photomatix groups. Great pictures and discussions happen in both.

Get out and try your hand at HDR, and put links to your pictures in the comments below. I love seeing what other people do with this new type of imagery.

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Ice
Each year about this time I wrestle with what should be an easy choice – do I keep my flickr site and whatever is serving as my art gallery, do I drop flickr, do I drop the art gallery? I go through this for about a week before deciding to leave things as they are. I wonder who else goes through this?

Here is my most recent rationalization for maintaining the status quo this year.

A. flickr is crazy cheap. $25/ year to maintain unlimited uploads, the price is ahrd to beat.

B. flickr makes sharing easy. Add in the Greasemonkey scripts for AllSizes and sharing on forums, etc is super simple.

C. the community in flickr is second to none. They definitely have nailed it in terms of getting exposure for your photos within the flickr world.

I am going to keep my art gallery host also, for the simple reason that I just started it and it doesn’t expire until next November. I stopped using Zenfolio (and would not recommend it to anyone) and started using SmugMug. I’ll talk about that decision in a future post.

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Oogave product lineup
Earlier this fall I had the opportunity to do a product shoot for a local soft drink company who was taking their product national in Whole Foods. Made from agave cactus nectars, these drinks are competing for shelf space with a whole host of competitors. The owner was rolling out new labeling and needed pics quick. He chose me because of my experience in shooting highly reflective surfaces, particularly glass bottles. To make the images more compelling, the owner wanted the bottles to look like they had just come out of a cooler. Fair enough, but now I needed to figure out how to do it.

The solution turned out to be fairly simple. I set the shot up as I normally would for shooting glass, got the lighting right, checked some test images and liked what I had. Then I used a common household spray bottle filled with water (nozzle set to a fine mist) and sprayed the bottles lightly. The water beaded up naturally, and I started shooting. It was actually pretty simple.

A couple of things to note when doing this:

  • If you need to respray them, let them dry first. Towelling the bottles off can result in torn labels.
  • Use extra caution if the labels are printed on regular paper. Let the water sit too long, and they will change color.
  • Take your time. Rearrange the items as necessary, let them dry completely, then rewet as needed.

But Wait, There’s More…
Spiderweb by Sam Pierson
Just a couple of weeks ago I came across some very cool photos of spiderwebs that had waterdrops on them. The photographer, Sam Pierson, had gone out one morning after a foggy night and got some incredible shots (link above goes to a great gallery of them). When I saw this, I thought “those are awesome, I want to make one”. I don’t have any good webs like that in my area (at least I haven’t found any), but when I do locate some, I plan to take my spray bottle with me and see if the same principle can be applied to the webs. I think you can make the wet look whenever you want.

Special thanks to Sam for letting me use his picture here. You simply must check out his gallery, he has some outstanding images there. For more information about Oogave Soda, check out their website.

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Canvas Wraps

Sunlight Mountain Resort
I was waiting to write today until the canvas wraps I ordered from Canvas On Demand had arrived. I have always wanted to do a canvas wrap of a picture, but never really knew which one to do.

Union Meadows at CopperAs it turns out, we are decorating one room of our house in a ski theme, and the two pictures here seemed perfect for it. So last week I sent the pics off to Canvas On Demand and waited anxiously. Once I got the shipping notice on Tuesday, I knew they would arrive today.

They come packed very well so nothing gets damaged in transit. Standard shipping is via FedEx ground, but you can pay more to expedite it. The quality of these images is superb. After having these two made, you can be sure I will be doing more. Maybe some small 8×10’s of my flower macros. I could even add a water-color treatment in Photoshop first before I send the file in. I’ll bet those would look really sharp. I am glad I bit the bullet and did this. You should try it too!

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Practical HDRI: High Dynamic Range Imaging for Photographers Practical HDRI: High Dynamic Range Imaging for Photographers by Jack Howard is the latest book I have read on the subject. I haven’t touched my Photomatix software (indeed, even my camera) for some time. Reading through this book helped inspire me to get back out shooting photos, and also to see if Olympus was doing anything to help with the capture of HDR images. As it turns out, the recently released Olympus E-620 has far better support for proper image bracketing to get the exposures you need.

The book itself is fairly short – just 168 pages. But these pages are full of good information and practical examples using more than just one software package. What I like most about it is the frankness of the author when it comes to producing realistic HDR images, as opposed to some of the cartoonish extremes that have come to symbolize the genre. I much prefer a realistic image that has great depth in all ranges between the darkest and lightest sections of the image. In addition to the software examples (Photoshop CS3, Photomatix and FDRTools), the author tells you what to watch for when capturing the images, well before they see the computer.

All in all this was a very worthwhile book, with more than enough interesting bits for the novice and experienced alike. I would definitely recommend this book to anyone who is looking for more information on HDRI.

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Photoshop and Lightroom

P1134434-Edit
As I sit here editing some of the photos I have been shooting today, I can’t help but notice that there are some things I still need to use Photoshop for. Luckily the integration between LR2 and CS3 is pretty good. I did recently pick up a good book on LR, entitled Photoshop Lightroom 2 for Digital Photographers Only, that might help me learn how to do some of these PS things in LR. But honestly, things like Clone Stamp are just too handy.

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DIY Light Tent
Once I completed my very large PVC Light Tent, I was pretty certain I would need a portable one. The large one could be portable, but would likely be a pain to cart around. And I was right – just last week someone asked me to come to their location and do some product photos. That shoot should be sometime this week, so I took some time this past weekend and made a portable light tent out of PVC pipe.

Portable Light Tent I could have gone with the same plans I used for the larger one, but instead opted to try Bill Huber’s design. It is much simpler than the large one, with fewer pieces, increasing the portability. I didn’t really vary mine much from his, except that I used regular 90° elbows, and I didn’t glue any joints together. Not gluing allows me to break the pieces down for maximum portability.

DIY Portable Light Tent When I went to the craft store to locate suitable heavy paper, I came across a higher quality posterboard that is double sided. Each piece measures 22″ in width, which is perfect for the width of this box. By using this posterboard, I have 8 different colors of backdrop – 2 shades of blue, purple, red, green, yellow, gold and silver. Following Bill’s trick of using a sheet metal or wood screw on the crossbar (drill pilot holes first before putting the screws in) and punching holes in the top of the posterboard, you get a VERY convenient method to hang the backdrops with. This also gives you added versatility. You can put the backdrop inside the frame and cover the tent with a sheet, or you can hang the backdrop so it is outside the frame. You might ask when you would need to do this, and an immediate example I can think of is a spherical object that reflects everything.

P1254546 As the photos on Bill’s site attest, you can get some great results from this. I haven’t fully tested it yet, but will be experimenting a lot with light positioning, etc. when I do my product shoot in Highlands Ranch later this week. This is a very inexpensive piece of equipment though, and I anticipate using it quite a bit. I’ll be sure to post pics after the shoot.

Also, I’d love to see some other designs for light tents, as well as any other DIY projects you might think of. And you can click on any of the thumbnails in this article to see a larger version.

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The Strobist DIY Light Tent

Strobist Light Tent in Action
My article on Do It Yourself Light Modifiers has proved to be quite popular. Bouncing light around large spaces is all well and good, but what about when you need to light one item really well. Say, for a product shot or something? Enter the Strobist DIY $10 Macro Photo Studio. That’s just a fancy way to say light tent. The photo above is one I created this past weekend. Once I had all the materials, it took me all of about 30 minutes to complete. I am not going to recreate the directions (printing the Strobist article is perfect), but I did want to explain what I did differently.

They recommend using a minimum of a 12×12x12 box, and leaving the top flaps on to control the light more. My box was something like 18×12x12 or something (I didn’t take measurements). I wanted it to be deeper though, so I taped all of the “flaps” together to extend the depth of the box (a little Duct will do ya). I then left one inch or so remaining to frame the 3 “windows”. Instead of tissue paper, quite by mistake I bought craft mylar (I think this might be really similar to the mylar drafting film I couldn’t find for my softbox project). It cuts really easily, and seems to be more durable than tissue paper would be. And it diffuses the light REALLY well. I used white duct tape to increase reflectivity inside the box. It definitely looks homemade, but the results it produces are just as good as the light tent I used in a previous job that cost 15x as much as this one (I already had the tape and box, so my out of pocket total was $4 for two sheets of poster board and the mylar film).
Remote Control Helicopters
This photo (click for larger version), of one of our Air Hogs Havoc helicopters and our Revell Fire Strike, was shot in the light tent at my house in Lakewood, Colorado. I used my Olympus FL-36 flash, fired remotely with a Cactus trigger, at 8mm and 3GN. The results are quite pleasing and work well enough for my needs. My next test will be to use it with static light instead of a strobe, and taking a photo of something on the black background instead of the white. For $5, you sure can’t beat this. In fact, I am already thinking of making a MUCH larger one, maybe out of a refrigerator box, to use for larger items, like tires and wheels. Hmm…

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